Confusing Climate

With the early and prolific berries – Holly, Hawthorn etc – seen in early Autumn, I felt it was Mother Natures’ way of providing food for our birds through another long hard Winter but the pre Xmas snow and ice soon disappeared with a mild snap following and not too many berries remaining.

The changing climate has also affected many wild and cultivated plant species as mentioned on a recent Radio 4 gardening program and a friend of mine has Honeysuckle in flower earlier than ever known in the past.  It will be interesting to note any change to Exmoor’s ‘Snowdrop Spectacular’ generally at it’s best the first 3 weeks of February, signalling the start of a new season.  Visitors head to Wheddon Cross on the eastern side of Exmoor, 5 miles from Exford, to see one of England’s finest displays of the diminutive white bloom – the Snowdrop.  The road leading to ‘Snowdrop Valley’ where the flowers carpet the banks of the River Avill, is closed to the general public but a park-and-ride scheme from the centre of Wheddon Cross operates at this time.  Alternatively, a 20 minute walk from the village on a special way-marked route will take you there.  For more details visit wheddoncross.org.uk.

It’s concerning that the mild winter might reflect on bird migration and breeding.  Fieldfares and Redwings who come to us from Scandinavia for the Winter are generally seen and heard daily by myself but have been difficult to find and photograph just now.  They are very smart birds and flock together making contact calls on the wing as they move around the fields and hedges.

The good news regarding the mild weather is that a group of us were able to travel down to The Exmoor White Horse Inn recently in sunshine with dry roads, for a wonderful Christmas lunch.  Joining in the festivities the warm and friendly staff always make it a special day and I can personally recommend the 4 day Xmas break with regular visitors booking Xmas 2012 far in advance knowing what a very well organised and full program it offers.

Sherryl Woods………………..16 January 2012

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Exmoor History

Exmoor lies in an ancient landscape known for its mysterious folklore and people. Split between Devon and Somerset it has rugged moor, heathland, beaches and jagged cliffs as well as ancient woodland. Once upon a time Exmoor was covered in ancient woodland that was used as royal deer hunting grounds, the land was managed by wardens whom monitored the commoners grazing rights and poaching of royal hunting stock.

The native Oak trees were cut down to help build the galleons and for the construction of local housing when the land was sold in 1818. Evidence shows that areas such as Parracombe have been occupied by human settlers since Mesolithic times. In later years groups cleared sections in the forest to develop agricultural settlements using animals to graze and cultivating staple crops. Exmoor has long been known for its trade in high quality wool and knit wear from the domestic sheep, this shows the versatility of small scale farming that produced many products from a small area. These cottage industries have kept the residents of Exmoor at work for many years including the production of heather honey, ales and ciders.

The moor land has continuously changed its face over time depending on the settlers that occupied the moor and the economic times. For example during the second world war landowners were forced to convert land into use for agriculture which led to reduced size of woodland in the case of moorland a 40% decrease in size. The national park is named after the river Exe that flows through the two counties, this beautiful river plays host to salmon, trout and many freshwater invertebrates and mammals such as otters.

The moors are famous for its wildlife including the red deer, numerous rare butterfly species and some of the countries finest birds of prey. There are many mysteries surrounding Exmoor such as the story of Lorna Doone and the numerous accounts of the Exmoor beast, the latter story yielded truth in the form of the skull of a Puma that was found by a moorland farmer. These big cats are supposed to have escaped from a travelling circus many years and now roam Exmoor and Dartmoor appearing on farmland from time to time.

There are also some strange stone circles such as Withypool that have not been studied for astronomical significance or any other purpose. Then there is the legend of Tarr steps an ancient clapper bridge said to be frequented by the devil himself whom sunbathes in the summer months on the bridge waiting for unbeknown visitors.

At the very heart of Exmoor, nestling by the bridge over the river Exe, you’ll find The Exmoor White Horse Inn. Festooned in Virginia Creeper, this traditional 16th Century building with classic period features has been family owned and run for generations

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Exmoor Traditional Crafts

Exmoor can be a harsh landscape to live in and be part of. The residents of the moor have had to utilise the local resources to their full potential to survive the cold winters and to make a few extra pounds on the markets. The first locals looked to the hedgerows for fruit and nuts and to the fields for edible mushrooms. Then came utilizing wood, metal and minerals to build homes, clothing and cooking equipment.

As transport became available and the advent of the markets opened up the locals developed their cottage crafts into small businesses using available materials for foods, drinks and traditional crafts. Exmoor has long been famed for its woollen crafts ranging from hats and gloves to amazing pattern jumpers. The locals traded wool on the markets and spun it traditionally with wheels and produced a fine wool that is highly sought after.

In 2010 Exmoor farmers began working with the wool of the Blue face sheep which produces a product of such high quality that it is being used on Saville row. They not only use sheep’s wool on Exmoor but are now using Alpaca wool to create an even finer end product. A fine traditional Exmoor delicacy is Whortleberry jam, the whortleberry is the name the folk of the moors give to the Bilberry a low growing shrubby plant that grows on the open moor and produces small amounts of blue berries. Alongside this you will always see sloe gin, blackberry jam and numerous hedgerow wines.

Down by the river exe lives an extremely special tree that benefited man and his crafts for as long as we can remember, this tree is the willow. Along with hazel the willow is traditionally used to make baskets, furniture and hurdles, at any Exmoor market you will find finely woven willow craftwork. There has also been a long tradition of pottery craftwork that was originally for domestic uses but has developed into a fine craft with a distinct feel and look of fine Exmoor pottery. In later years people introduced glass blowing and there are now numerous studios offering high quality hand blown ornaments and table ware.

All of this and much more are on the lively Exmoor markets, each cottage craft offers an insight into the history of the moor and its inhabitants.

During 2012 we will be holding Astronomy Weekends, Painting Holidays and Photography Workshops at The Exmoor White Horse Inn. Please keep checking back as bookings will be limited.

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Please click here to read our January 2012 Monthly Newsletter

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